Tropical & Topical Tales

 

G'Day, Kia Ora and Hello from the Tropics. I am sat underneath (above photo) this tropical scene hoping no stray coconuts knock me unconscious as, let's face it, there are only so many animals that can kill me so why not an inanimate object too!

We have lingered longer in Port Douglas as, once you're here, it's very hard to leave....in fact it's hard to do very much so some self-motivation has been required to blog this morning.

This is our 4th visit to PD as it had been our Winter holiday of choice from NZ; being only a short flight across the Tasman. So, a bit like the Brits heading off to Spain for the winter but without the English Pubs, wall to wall sun loungers, and cafes selling a "full English"! Mmm probably not the best analogy......nothing like going to Spain for winter hehe.

We normally stay at a great little motel called the Pink Flamingo which, as it turns out, is dog friendly but due to having accommodation already (on wheels) we checked in to the Tropic Breeze Caravan Park. It is actually better located than the motel as we have been able to walk everywhere; beach, shops,brewery and, Brucey Bonus, has a pool! It was also doing a 'pay 6, stay 7' deal so was rude not to.

Port Douglas has a very special meaning to us and ,indeed, when we were discussing why over a cheeky Hemingway Craft Beer, we became quite emotional. Why is it so? 

On our first trip here in 2011 we were still living in Sydney and had come to escape the cold for a week (all relative; yes winter in the UK much colder blah blah!). At that stage we knew we were going to be heading to NZ and so it was quite a fortuitous coincidence that 4 of our fellow guests at the motel were Kiwis - Karen & Nikki and Rob & Claire. We soon struck up conversation and. over a few too many wines, they made the fatal mistake of suggesting once we were in Auckland to get in touch...so we did and, as they say, the rest is history. Von and I both agree wholeheartedly that without that chance meeting in Port Douglas our transition to New Zealand would not have been so all encompassing. Those who have moved countries will understand that creating new friendships can be hard. Undoubtedly, once we had Dennis a separate group of dog walking friends was also formed and living in the same house for 8 years also meant we had great neighbourhood friends too. But, as gay women, it was the ready made group of like minded  'lezzas' that helped cement our Aroha for Aotearoa. Without any family close by, they really have become our Whanau (and we miss them all massively).

Anyway at the risk of getting too sentimental...back to Port Douglas. It is a great town and one that, thankfully, has resisted the temptation of having huge developments and holiday complexes. All buildings are restricted to three storeys which has really made a difference in terms of the beach front not being consumed by massive apartment blocks and hotels like Surfers Paradise further down the coast of Queensland. It definitely has that 'beachy' vibe which always feels unpretentious, where backpackers mix happily with the very wealthy. It is a hopping point to the Great Barrier Reef and has a number of snorkelling and diving boat trips. Budget means no reef trip but, to be fair, we are not sure any new trip can eclipse our previous experiences on the reef. How do you beat flying out to it by private helicopter as we did back in 2007? Or the big group '50th' celebrations trip we did with all the Kiwi girls in 2015? 

That said, I'm hoping to do some snorkelling from the beach once we get further South away from Crocodiles (that can kill you) and Box jellyfish (that can kill you) and Stingers (that can seriously maim you) - mind you, that still does leave the sharks.... 

PD also has a craft brewery so, again, hits all the key performance indicators right there. Presently Hemingways have a beer collaboration with one of the NZ Breweries, Deep Creek. Loving that initiative .....and the beer is pretty good too!

It's fair to say we haven't been doing an awful lot whilst here as we are so familiar with it and it is so relaxing. Walk first thing in the morning, followed by throwing ourselves in the Ocean (Dennis included), reading and planning our route, throwing ourselves in the pool (Dennis not included), more reading, Von cleaning (haha), evening drink/scrabble, Bed. Phew, it's some schedule. 

But before Port Douglas we did do some tripping further north and here I shall hand you over to Von...

We left Les & Julie in Cairns on the 6th October and, after another sojourn through the Atherton Tablelands, we continued to head north to Cooktown.  Up until a few years ago this part of the trip would have been near impossible in our two/front wheel drive van as the rough road would have shook us to bits.  However, in 2018 the whole route was laid with beautiful bitumen and, as a consequence, is now a reasonable 200km trip.  As a fellow Yorkshiremen, I was keen to get to the place that bears his name especially as 2020 marks the 250th Anniversary of Captain James Cook's arrival in Australia.  And as a fellow naval officer I was also keen to see the surrounding area and better appreciate how such a fine seaman could manage to run his ship aground on a reef.  Having looked at the charts and seen the entry into Cooktown I am now only surprised that it hadn't happened sooner!

I also acknowledge that for the indigenous population of this land, the arrival of Cook and his men began a chain of events that would have significant ramifications for a people that had successfully inhabited this land for over 60,000 years.  We were reminded of this longevity when we visited the Split Rock Aboriginal Art site at Laura on our way up to Cooktown.  It took my breath away to be looking at carvings which have been scientifically proven to be over 13,000 years old.  13,000!  What must a people have done (or not done) to survive in such harsh conditions over such a period of time?  

In fact, I look to Cook's diaries and his observation of the 'locals':

"From what I have said of the Natives of New-Holland they may appear to some to be the most wretched people upon Earth, but in reality they are far more happier than we Europeans, being wholly unacquainted not only with the superfluous but the necessary conveniences so much sought after in Europe, they are happy in not knowing the use of them.

They live in a tranquility, which is not disturbed by the inequality of condition.  The earth and sea of their own accord furnishes them with all things necessary for life.

They covet not magnificent houses, household stuff etc.  They live in a warm and fine climate and enjoy a very wholesome air, so that they have very little need of clothing and this they seem to be fully sensible of, for many to whom we gave cloth etc to, left it carelessly upon the sea beach and in the woods as a thing they had no manner of use for.

In short they seemed to set no value upon any thing we gave them, nor would they ever part with anything of their own for any one article we could offer them; this, in my opinion argues that they think themselves provided with all the necessaries of life and that they have no superfluities "

An interesting commentary from the late 1700s and one which resonates quite strongly today.  So called western civilisation has been around for just the two millennia and appear to be cocking up in spades...  

(Which reminds me, if you haven't yet seen David Attenbroughs documentary on Netflix then, if you can, I urge you to watch it.  Really, if we don't do something soon about population growth, overt use of natural resources especially fossil fuels and our endless love affair with plastic then we have to wonder whether we will actually get to the year 3020.)

After Cook fixed the hull of Endeavour he went on his way, continuing to name headlands and bays and straits after patrons he wanted to keep happy, members of the ship's company or as outright descriptors - Cape Tribulation (because here began all our troubles), Weary Bay (we were all a bit tired that day), Disappointment Bay (what, no ice cream shop!?).

Cooktown became Cooktown some 100 years later after gold was discovered along the Palmer River.  Any goldfield needs logistical support and the harbour in what became Cooktown was an obvious choice for ships to get in and out given that there was no inland route.  In the local Guugu Yimithirr language the name for the region is Gangaar which can be translated as 'place of the quartz crystals'.  The crystals were used in various Aboriginal ceremonies and were traded from the Cooktown region as far south as Mossman, some 300kms to the south.  There were 32 clans within the Guugu Yimithirr speaking Tribal Nation and the area by the river was Waymbuur land.  Unbeknown to Cook in 1770, Waymbuur was considered to be a place of cultural significance where disputes were settled, ceremonies were held, mothers gave birth and the law prohibited the spilling of blood.  Waymbuur was indeed a safe haven for Cook.  We know all of this because we visited the excellent James Cook Museum.  Not only did it have some great historical displays concerning Cook but also plenty of indigenous history and the more recent settler history too.  We love a good Museum and this one rewarded us royally.  

However, it wasn't just the Museum that provided an insight to Cooktown, littered throughout the town were information boards, statues and descriptive walkways.

Something we love more than a Museum is free information!  Oh, and then there was the Botanic Gardens.  Founded in the late 1800s they were a delight and introduced us to the work of Vera Scarth-Johnson OAM (1912-1999).  Vera had a life long interest in art and botany and was inspired by the work of botanists Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander who accompanied Cook in Endeavour.  Having settled in Cooktown in 1970, she decided to paint 200 of the area's known plants and, in 1990, gave a large part of the collection to the town.  As a result, a proper Gallery was built in the grounds of the Botanic Gardens and now houses the beautiful paintings.  Even better, each illustration have been hung alongside the corresponding Banks/Solander illustration and it was fascinating to compare the differing styles.  Unfortunately photographs were banned so you will just have to take our word for it that it was a splendid exhibition.

Overall, we were in our element and when coupled with blue skies, an even bluer ocean and palm tress there was a great deal to like about Cooktown. In fact, Sharon was so taken by the the history that she downloaded Peter Fitzsimons book 'James Cook: The Story Behind the Man who Mapped the World'.  I think she must be enjoying it as every now and then she shouts out more Cook Trivia!

Whilst we were in Cooktown we did a day trip to Isabella Falls and then visited the Indigenous community at Hope Vale.  This marked our most northerly position on the trip (so far) and it's quite remarkable that we were only 900 miles south of the equator.  Well, I think it's remarkable I can see how others might not.  

Isabella Falls and Cilla did the causeway too

Our most northerly position to date

From Cooktown we were headed to Port Douglas but not before a detour to Wudjal Wudjal Falls (spectacular) and an evening at the Lions Den Public House.  The latter was not cheap camping but the $17 Parmi Night more than made up for it.  

And so we made our way to Port Douglas and, I think, to one of the friendliest camp grounds in Australia.  The staff are lovely and all the campers are too.  We often muse on what criteria make a campground go from 'yeah, nah' to 'shall we stay more nights'.  We think there is an alchemy of cleanliness, tidiness, layout, location and 'specialness' but have yet to work out the optimum ratios of each; we'll keep observing and let you know at the end of the trip.

After we posted our last blog, Maggie Bolam (a friend in Hampshire, UK) commented on Facebook that our readers should be allowed to ask questions of us.  We threw open the floor for questions but, on receiving zilch, it seems it is only Maggie who has any (!).  So here are her questions and our answers...

In one word:

1. describe your adventure so far..

Sharon: Challenging

Von: Fantastic

2. describe something about each other that’s surprised you on this trip

Sharon: Von's culinary repertoire with minimal ingredients !

Von: How hard Sharon worked when we were in Kangaroo Valley.

3. What do you hope to get out of this trip

Sharon: A real sense of Australia, it's people and places

Von: An understanding of who I am without the uniform on.

4. What’s your most overwhelming emotion

Sharon: Awe

Von: Wonder

5. What’s your biggest fear 

Sharon: Something happening to Von or Dennis.

Von: Something happening to Dennis. (Obviously I have a fear about something happening to Sharon too but she understands why we are here and what the bad things are. Dennis is completely reliant on us looking after him and keeping him safe).

6. How far do you hope to travel in kilometres

Sharon: Guess......60,000km

Von: Whatever the driver says!

7. Why Australia and not NZ

Sharon: We live in NZ so have plenty of exploration time

Von: Circumstance of the van meant we did Australia first but there has always been a plan to 'do' NZ too.

8. Favourite place so far 9. Why?

Sharon : Can't decide. Just too many small towns that give their all and it would be too easy to pick essentially a holiday resort. (Port Douglas) Other small Outback towns that do it tough and create Art etc equally have a place in my heart.(Winton, Clunes, Dirranbandi)

Von: Cooktown. Steeped in history, great climate (when we were there) and amazing vistas of sea and mountains.

10. Coastal or inland

Sharon: Really difficult but I'd have to say Coast.

Von: I am a Cancerian, it's got to be the coast!

11. What do you miss about living in a house

Sharon: Nothing....if pushed for a word - Garden

Von: My answer was going to be 'nothing' and then, last night, as I was finishing my shower in the Campsite Amenities block I heard some ladies talking and I actually felt a little homesick for just having my own bathroom!

12. Aussies or New Zealander’s (controversial!)

Sharon: Haha New Zealanders of course!

Von: There's reason why we have Black & Silver passports!

13. Favourite food so far

Sharon: Anything Von makes; or Prawns

Von: A toss up between the amazing scones that Irene did over the campfire in KV and the gyoza made by Shuji when we were in Canberra...

14. Describe living in a van

Sharon: Easy

Von: Organised

15. Best experience so far

Sharon: Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail

Von: Every morning, we wake up when we wake up and then put the kettle on to boil. I then make fabulous coffee using an Aeropress and we sit and chat about the day ahead. This is my most favourite experience and I get to do it every day!

16. Worst experience so far

Sharon: Driving through the bush fire destruction

Von: Yes, as above, the bush fire destruction especially the area close to Derek & Irene in KV.

And that's all folks! Until next time, stay safe.