A Tale of Two Peninsula

 

Peninsulas, Peninsuli, Peninsula, whichever the plural, that's the theme for this blog!

We decided it would be good to compare and contrast the highlights from both the 'Yorke' (which seems an age away since we were there) and the 'Eyre'.

They do share some common ground; they're both in South Australia!

They were both surveyed by Captain Matthew Flinders during his circumnavigation of Australia in 1801; he named the Yorke Peninsula after Charles Philip Yorke and narrowly beat the French navigator Baudin who wanted to name it Cambaceres Peninsula. The Eyre was named after an explorer Edward John Eyre who physically explored the area in 1839-41.

This is not forgetting the Traditional Owners of both lands who had lived and survived here well before any white settlers. The Narungga in the Yorke and the Barngala in the Eyre.

One is shaped like a boot (Yorke) and one a triangle (Eyre).

The Yorke is 5,834km2 whilst the Eyre is much bigger at 170,500km2. Thus the population reflects this with the Yorke containing approx.11,056 in the 2016 census and the Eyre, 57,730. Boots on the ground would be expected to swell in some of the coastal towns during peak holiday periods. As to coastline, the Yorke has just 700km of coastline and the Eyre has 2,355km. So it stands to reason the Eyre can fit more (of everything) in!

We were quite surprised how much agriculture there was on both Peninsula.

On the Yorke a large production of barley and, similarly, on the Eyre a large farming industry whether that is cereal crops, sheep or cattle. Both have commercial fishing and, of course, tourism.

So that's the factual stuff for those who are interested.

Now for the 'niff naff' and trivia; we put our heads together and came up with various categories, in no particular order, to apply in terms of our favourites (personal opinions). Clearly, this only applies to those towns who were lucky enough to have our presence (!!).

 1. Favourite Jetty: 

Whilst there were undoubtedly a number of great wooden jetties of varying lengths that we managed to photo, we decided to give this award to Whyalla for its innovative (and controversial) Circular Jetty. I say controversial as it caused much mutterings amongst the locals as to cost ($7.8million) and what was the point etc. As tourists it worked for us; a definite drawcard due to its unusual design. It is the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere too. We saw it on a blustery day, but I imagine on a clear blue sky day with calm water, the sight of the fish and occasional dolphins would be awesome. Whyalla was also clearly a town that was trying to diversify from the very obvious eyesores of the steel works and iron ore refinery and this was reflected in their marketing of "Cuttlefish Capital" of Australia. David Attenborough featured the phenomenon of the mating/spawning Cuttlefish on one of his Blue Planet programmes and this is the only place in Australia you can witness it. So tick for the Yorke.

 2. Favourite Natural Phenomenon:

This had to be, without question, the Wudinna area and it's imposing and magnificent Geology! We have had many WOW moments in South Australia and this drew one of the biggest ones. The mere fact that the monolith of Mt.Wudinna is only second to Uluru blew us away. It was very exciting that we could camp just down the road amongst other great rocks and then walk up this one (with Dennis) was spectacular. We did check there wasn't any spiritual connection or objections from the First Nations people and, apart from the 'leave only footprints' messaging, it was all good. It is believed that the Mount, together with other rocks in the area, was a valuable water source for Aboriginal travellers, and then latterly pastoral settlers who devised a series of drainage systems. As well as the amazing shapes and sizes we were drawn to the differing light created at both sunrise and sunset.

We did agree that both Peninsula had amazing coastlines; the tip of the Yorke, and Whalers Way in the Eyre, were close contenders in this category. But, tick for the Eyre.

 3. Favourite Mural(any medium):

This was a very tricky dilemma as we have seen sooooooo many Murals of different material and locale. Many have been community lead artworks, and many are works completed by the Silo Artists in a BOGOF type way. That is, if they have been nearby working on a silo you can almost guarantee they have done another work on a wall somewhere. We have become spotters of popular Silo Artists and can now recognise some just by the style of artwork!

We opted for the town with the biggest collection of awesome murals and this had to go to Tumby Bay on the Eyre. Tumby Bay recognised that silo and mural art was a definite drawcard to small towns who need the tourism to supplement other industries. In 2018 they started the Colour Tumby Festival and invited street artists to paint murals on different areas around the town. Starting with just 6 locations it proved so popular that this was increased by a further 10 the following year. Covid cancelled 2020 but 2021 saw 6 more murals appear. There is now a significant trail around the town and some are quite hidden so a veritable treasure hunt! A number of our favourite artists have pieces of work there. Smug, Adnate, and Dvate.

 4. Favourite Silo/Water Tower Art:

Tumby Bay had a good Silo Art but we decided it couldn't scoop both awards so we decided on the Water Tower of Edithburgh, on the Yorke. They, like many of the smaller towns, are striving for the tourist dollar and research has shown that simply painting a silo/water tower as a point of interest, then leads to maybe a cafe or a free/low cost campground, significantly increases the 'coffers' in to that local community. Many of these towns receive a grant from the council to improve aspects of their community so a popular choice is silo painting. Some are disused silo's so not as much of an issue. Viterra, a large grain corporation, own a number of the silo's on both Peninsula and they have come on board with the art and helped towards costs and infrastructure i.e car parks and fencing if it's a working silo.

Edithburgh was one of 5 towns on the Yorke peninsula that actually received Federal Grants ($60k) for the silo art as part of the 2019 bushfire recovery programme. This helped with materials and to bring artists to the area. The Edithburgh Water Tower was only completed in April this year and since we left the Yorke Peninsula another two have been completed in nearby towns. We loved the vibrancy of this particular piece and it's showcasing of the cuttlefish and the leafy sea-dragon which are both found in the ocean surrounding the Yorke Peninsula. This was a small coastal town 'doing stuff' and could easily have sneaked the category for best walking trail/mural too with it's mosaic walking path along the coast!

 5. Favourite Walking Trail:

We had a debate about this one as some of the smaller towns along the coast and inland have really worked hard at developing walking trails around their communities. Some as a fitness incentives for the locals and some for tourism. Adding sculptures/art and or historical information boards always lures us in.

This might be a bit of a cheat but we opted for the "Walk the Yorke" Trail which we dipped in and out of all along the coast of the Yorke Peninsula. It is 500km of shared walking and cycling path which starts in Port Wakefield, where we first came across it, and finishes in Moonta Bay. Whilst we didn't 'do' the whole 500km, I'm pretty certain we have walked a fair portion of it in small sections. The pathways were always well maintained and each community had an opportunity to enhance it with either art or facilities. Campgrounds were also geared up for those who wished to cycle/walk/camp it too. It was always dog-friendly as well which Dennis enjoyed.....I think?

 6. Favourite Caravan Park:

Right up to yesterday we had struggled over our decision for this category. Moonta and Cummins to name two but having been in our current caravan park for 24hrs this one has snuck in there as the winner! We have been trying to list our criteria for what makes a good Caravan Park. This becomes difficult depending on the time of year and climate.i.e if it's stinking hot then a pool has to be on the list. Not too inviting at this time of year! In fact many parks actually close up their pools in the cooler States and use it as a time to clean them. So if it's not a Pool then what else? Tempted by the bouncy cushions as Von did enjoy her one go! Value for money has to be a criteria and some of the coastal towns in other States eg. NSW & Queensland are extortionate in peak times hence we avoid them. We have been pleasantly surprised by the value for money in South Australia and on the Peninsula. They average about $30-35 and sometimes much less if we opt for unpowered. So after value for money, it has to be cleanliness of facilities - kitchen (if they have one), BBQ's, toilet/shower block, and laundry. Privacy and size of the sites and general landscaping is also a factor. Taking in to account that South Australia is the driest State in Australia we do understand that having green grass is not always possible. Still amazes us the criticism some sites get for being dusty!!! Other criteria would be walkable in to town or to be nearby a good walking trail/beach which is dog-friendly too.

So our winner is Streaky Bay Islands Campground on the Eyre which has, undoubtedly, the BEST amenities block we have EVER been to! Sites are spacious and although gravel are neat and tidy with planted boundaries. It is walkable to a trail and a beach with an amazing sunset. Spotlessly clean everywhere. 

The 'foyer' of the ensuite facilities...!

 7. Favourite Free/Low-cost/Donation Campsite:

This was an easy choice and was a more recent stay so our memories didn't struggle. Sheringa Bay on the Eyre gave us the sheer WOW of waking up every morning with a beautiful (dog-friendly) beach, white sand and blue sea. A relatively new and clean toilet cubicle was also provided and with plenty of toilet roll! Well worth the donation. The only criteria for this type of camp is a clean, even if basic, toilet as we have our own shower. Without going in to too much detail we do also have our own toilet, if necessary, but that does affect the score! We have solar so can be off grid for a few days if it stays sunny. We were blessed with some gorgeous weather for the two days we were there and our location perched on the rocks was sublime. I imagine had there been a huge southerly blowing in we might not have found it as enjoyable!

 8. Favourite Coastal Town:

We struggled to make a decision on this one so we cheated and gave each Peninsula a favourite. So Tumby Bay on the Eyre and Moonta on the Yorke. Streaky Bay has definitely given them both a run for their money though, having been here for 3 days in two different locations!

I think the stand out for all these towns, if I am to include Streaky Bay too, is their location in relation to the campground. Our current campground is not close to the main town so this is where Streaky Bay just dips out of contention. However, they all have great walking trails. TB has it's great artwork and Moonta has it's well planned history trails, both walking and driving to explore their Copper mining history. We found it particularly of interest having spent many holidays in Cornwall. Moonta really draws on the Cornish past as many of the copper miners were Cornish. They even have a Cornish festival every year to celebrate everything Cornish. (see cat.11)

Both towns had plenty to keep us out of mischief which can only be a good thing!

Moonta just edged it with Putt Putt !!

 9. Favourite Inland Town:

Another tricky choice but we've chosen Cummins, although we had others nipping at its heels. Cummins was a really good example of a rural inland town that was surviving on it's own merits. Tourism was a nice to have rather than a must have to survive. They boast a working and, from what we could see, successful Flour Mill. They are bang in the middle of a huge swathe of agricultural land and this is the only working mill on the Eyre. As a result of the fresh flour they have a particularly good bakery "Five Loaves"(see cat.11). It felt like this town was on the 'up' unlike some other inland towns who look decidedly 'down'. The school was being modernised and extended which is always a positive sign and it also tailored it's education to the agricultural aspect of the population. They had recently completed a walking trail around the town. It had differing distances and whilst we used it as tourists it was clear this was also a means to fitness for the population of Cummins. Not surprising when you see the cakes in the bakery! I chatted to a local lady at the tyre garage, who kindly checked our tyres for free, and she told us the trails were part of a grant from the council and that they hoped to get a Silo painted in the near future. Given they had 6 enormous silos right in town this would definitely be a draw card!

Their 'tourist lure', which can be sourced on WikiCamps(our 'go to' App for quirky), is their Public Toilets. The local Community decided to make a real fuss of the loos and have decorated them in bright colours and gone mosaic crazy all on the outside and mosaic mirrors inside. Mens & Womens both had the mosaic treatment together with some great statues outside. The mosaic can also be found at the entrance to the school where the kids have put together a collage of what their town and school mean to them.

This was most definitely a friendly town. We drove and walked through Cummins and, without exaggeration, EVERYONE either waved or said Hello! That is why they are the winners.

On the outside wall of the loo!

On the entrance to the school

10.Favourite Beach:

Mmm think this might be related to Cat.7 which had to be Sheringa Bay. Not much more to say really and it gives us an excuse to use another photo!

11.Favourite Culinary Delight:

We were most definitely spoilt for choice in this category in both the Eyre and the Yorke.  A visit to both Peninsula undoubtedly gives you some of the best culinary delights in South Australia. Seafood being the best example and whilst most heads to restaurants in Adelaide (and further afield) there is still the opportunity to purchase at source.

That said, it wasn't just about seafood...well, okay, mostly seafood...Oysters in Coffin Bay, Cornish pasty in Moonta, Smoked Chilli Squid in Port Lincoln, the Vanilla/Custard slice in Cummins, and the Sourdough Bread in Wudinna were all revelations.

Coffin Bay

Cummins

12.Dennis' Favourite Experience:

And, as usual, we have left the last word to Dennis! Contrary to belief he does quite like posing by sculptures...honest. But his absolute favourite is his trips to a beach...any beach really. He runs more, digs more, rolls more and I swear we hear him laughing. His best beach, I think he would agree, was our best beach on the Eyre Peninsula - Sheringa Bay. We had much more sand in the van, in his bed, and our bed so it must've been good!

So that concludes our round up of both of the largest Peninsula in South Australia. Our advice is, if you can, definitely go to both. They both have great and varied coastlines, bonza beaches, some great history, really friendly inland towns, and fabulous food. We recommend going in the shoulder seasons as the climate has been perfect for getting out and about. 

We are nearing the end of our South Australian leg of the Lap and we'll be sad to leave and a little apprehensive. WA by all accounts is amazing so we'll see for ourselves whether it does live up to it's reputation; we've just got to get across the Border. Judging by the swearing from the cheap seats the G2G Pass to get into WA is proving a little frustrating!

But first the Mighty Nullarbor beckons.......